Brockton Villa

You come for the view first. A narrow strip of blue, the La Jolla Cove and a flotilla of bobbing seals, visible from a sun-worn wooden deck. Brockton Villa is an old seaside house turned restaurant, all fireplaces, creaky stairs and varnished banquettes; it still smells faintly of lemon and butter. Breakfast here is a small obsession. Order the Coast Toast or the French toast and watch the surface crack to reveal a custardy interior. Plates arrive generous and unfussy, seafood bright and salted with ocean air. Staff swing between charmingly professional and brisk, depending on the shift; parking and the stairs are part of the ritual. Best to arrive hungry, patient and early for a patio table. If you get seated by the fireplace, keep an eye on the doorway: someone will inevitably return with a surprise slice of toast.